my occasional musings on life, love, art, perfume ... what else is there?

3.23.2006

Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus

What I have learned about the series of whiteflower fragrances I have been trying is that --at least with the Ormonde Jayne Champaca, Sampaquita and now the Osmanthus -- I will never like them initially.

In one case, I will say, "where's the fragrance? I don't smell much." With the others, I will sneeze, my nose will run, my chest will tighten and today, worst of all, I will think "fruity!"

This is my problem. Not the fragrances.

These are beautifully made scents. But these three of the four "sunny" fragrances of the OJ line simply do not agree with me. (I have a sense that the upcoming OJ Frangipani will be an exception.)

Until I get to drydown. And then the scents are quieter (except for the very quiet Champaca, which develops some personality) and whatever darkness there is about them emerges. I am much happier with the basenotes in all these fragrances, especially if I get lucky and the signature Ormonde Jayne pink pepper is present.

Anyway. Today is Osmanthus. Most of my asthmatic reaction occurred here -- and I may still have to make a trip to the sink with this one.

Its notes are pomello (thought to be an ancestor to the grapefruit), davana (sweet Egyptian herb), pimento, Osmanthus absolute, water lily and sambac (Indian Jasmine), cedarwood, labdanum resin, musk and vetivert.

Looking at those notes, I know I'm going to be happier in about 90 minutes. I just have to live through the sweet tart top layer of this scent and get to the other side, where the friendlier (to me) softer-edged woody and herby notes reside.

Next: Frangipani. I have a good feeling about this one.

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